Couture might not be as haute as it was on Western runways, but high-end garments are doing brisk business in India. Delhi Times finds out why.

At the recently-held Paris Haute Couture Week, the really big fashion czars like Versace, Ungaro and Givenchy were missing. Then, fashionistas around the world haven't seen the likes of Pacco Rabanne, Nina Ricci and Pierre Balmain for some time now. And, with Ungaro making the statement " Haute couture no longer answers to the tastes of contemporary women," this 'most exclusive' segment of high fashion biz seems to be on its way out from Western runways.

Reclusive as it may sound on Western catwalks, haute couture in India is as thriving a business for designers as it was before. Designers attribute this to fashion's link to the social status of the client. "Haute couture in India is a statement on socio-economic standing," says designer David Abraham, "Nowhere in the world is a wedding celebrated in the way it is in India. Here, most high-end garments are made for weddings. Abroad, haute couture is a vehicle to carry other products like perfume and accessories."

While glitz on the runway has always been applauded in India, clean lines seldom evoke the desired response. "Yes, haute couture has always been part of aristocracy in India, but with the changing times, one can slip into a pair of jeans and attend an event," says designer Tarun Tahiliani.

What then makes haute couture so wanted in India? "Though couture is priced above Rs 1 lakh, demand is growing as it is being offered to the first-generation clientele, which goes for radical interpretation of tradition. Maybe, demand for couture in India will decline a 100 years from now, like what's happening in the West."

So, is Indian couture frozen in time, rather than being receptive to changes in technology, fabric and lifestyle? According to Asha Baxi, dean, academics, NIFT, "Couture succeeds in India because tradition and modernity are blended well. Abroad, people either go in for out and out Western-wear or strictly traditional outfits." Well, it might not be in fashion, but India wants the best of both worlds!