It's amazing how many mirrors, beer signs, banners and tchotchkes a bar can accumulate over the years. All that stuff was part of the charm of Zur Krone, a German-themed Walker's Point watering hole that was a neighborhood staple until it pulled up roots last summer -- signs, imported beer bottles and all -- and moved to Thiensville.

Sad as it was to see it go, the fact that it was replaced by a terrific restaurant/bar called Crazy Water (839 S. 2nd St.) is keeping me from weeping in my weiss beer.

And with the giant beer coolers and knick knacks gone, the building's interior has revealed its attractive, spacious interior with a tin ceiling and beautiful wood Deco bar. All owners Peggy Magister and Tony Betzhold -- who also run Cedarburg's Fork Cafe -- did was refurbish the wood floors, add a few coats of contemporary color to the walls, display some paintings by a local artist and hire a staff that seems to genuinely care about its customers.

There are a dozen tables in the main dining room or you can sit at the full service bar, behind which the chef prepares your dinner in a sort of performance art. The menu is small but still offers variety with six appetizers, five entrees and several daily specials.

The appetizers are interesting and combining a few would make an interesting meal in itself. The crab cakes on field greens and barbeque shrimp with rosemary biscuits are tame enough, but the tartlet of roquefort, mascarpone and goat cheeses with carmelized onions and a salsa made from lingonberries makes you sit up and take notice. (Lingons are tart little red berries similar to cranberries that are made into jams, juices, liquors and sauces in northern latitudes such as Sweden, Germany, Russia and Canada). Napoleon of potato crisps, lobster and ossetra caviar is a rich offering, as is a smoked salmon pizza.

On a recent visit entrees offered duck, chicken, beef, halibut and shrimp. The seared five-spice duck breast salad on baby spinach also had apricot stilton cheese, sugared pecans and pears with a pear demi glace and a splash of vinaigrette. Crazy Shrimp was Asian barbecue sauce with chorizo sausage, ginger and roma tomatos served with wild rice. The tender and juicy seared tenderloin was accompanied by baby carrots, a blackberry sauce and a ramekin of piping hot potato casserole infused with nutmeg. The halibut had a red curry sauce and Asian noodle salad. The chicken sandwich is plated with greens, tomato, goat cheese and topped with a vinaigrette.

While I wouldn't eat dinner at one of the half-dozen tables in the tiny backyard -- it's just too dull at this point -- it does add a decent space for patrons to enjoy a drink while waiting for a table. And now that word has gotten out about this place, the wait is often long. Luckily, the nearby Allen-Bradley clock tower always provides a night light.

Crazy Water does not serve lunch, but is open at 5 p.m. seven-days per week for dinner. All major credit cards are accepted. Limited outdoor seating is available and smoking is allowed. Call Crazy Water at (414) 645-2606 for more information, such as details on live music on weekends.