by Nick Holdsworth
MOKRA GORA, SERBIA – You could hardly have invented a stranger place for a film festival.
More than 1,500 metres above sea level, three hours drive from Belgrade, high in the mountains that straddle the border with Bosnia – where just 15 years ago armoured convoys of Serbian soldiers trundled towards the siege of Sarajevo - a recreated wooden-built medieval village is hosting the world’s first Kustendorf Festival of Film and Music.
The brainchild of award winning Serbian director Emir Kusturica (pictured), the new student-film focused festival is avowedly non-commercial. It kicked off on January 14th with a mock funeral for copies of “Die Hard’ complete with weeping black-clad women, an incense swinging priest and pine coffin.
As a symbol of all that Kusturica hates about commercial filmmaking, the final death of ‘Die Hard’ hit the right note: Kustendorf is festival that takes its art seriously but not itself.
An invitation-only event financed by Kusturica and the Serbian government and held at the ethno-village the film director has developed on a mountainside above the remote winter resort village of Mokra Gora, Kustendorf surely counts as one of the more eccentric events on the world’s calendar of 3,000 or so annual film festivals.
The village, where Kusturica now lives most of the time having first had the vision to buy up and relocate local old wooden houses here (at a cost of a few thousand dollars each) when filming in the valley four years ago, boasts a Serbian Orthodox church, bank, swimming pool, library, room for 110 guests and two state of the art Dolby cinemas, one boasting a $90,000 K2 projector.
Streets are named after famous directors and other figres that Kusturica holds dear: Nikita Mikhalkov Square, the Stanley Kubrick Theater, Federico Fellini Street and Ernest Che Guevara St are all here.
Even without the names, Mechavnik’s location is inspiring enough: mists and cloud that blur the pine dotted mountains burn off as the sun rises to reveal rocky crags beneath a crystalline blue sky. A miniature steam railway, hugely popular with children, runs through the valley below.
Stories of wartime battles between Tito’s partisans, the Germans and nationalist Chekniks add a flavor of Serbia’s turbulent past.
It’s an easy place to promote idealism and propagate an anti-commercial gospel.
Mikhalkov warmed to the zeitgeist during press conferences, workshops and after film chats.
“The most awful thing that can happen to anyone is intellectual McDonalds – fast, cheap, tasteless and can harm you,” he remarked on more than one occasion when asked what threatened artful, thought provoking film making today.
He was at his best when talking about his own process of creating atmosphere and concentration on a set – the weeks of work he puts into writing up notes on a screenplay that may be hundreds of pages long; his dismissal of any crew member not totally engaged in the project; the effort he puts into ensuring actors have done the work necessary to allow them to extemporise.
Israeli director Eran Kolirin – named the European Film Academy’s European Discovery of the Year for his touching film “The Band’s Visit” – seemed bewildered by the attention when talking to the audience after the screening of his film.
“I was scared to death when I got that discovery award,” he admitted before delving into the creative processes he adopts – trying to “re-remember” emotions and images, as he put it.
An intimate and relaxed event that is more campus retreat than festival, Kustendorf promises to become an interestingly quixotic event if funding and interest holds up.
Kusturica says that next year he hopes to bring in African, Asia and South American film and says that celebrated American independent filmmaker Jim Jarmusch will be a key note visitor.
Photos: Mechavnik village, where film festival is taking place and Emir Kusturica introducing a film. Photos by Nick Holdsworth.