The Moscow Times

Market Matters : Oil and Metals Shine as RTS Breaks 2,100
The RTS, the country's benchmark stock index, breached the 2,100 barrier for the first time this year, as oil and metal stocks pulled away from the field.

The Moscow Times » Dining

Issue 3890 | 24 Apr 2008

Kulich (Russian Easter Bread)
Chef's Secrets

A Tibetan Makeover
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Sansara has opened in the former premises of the Mexican restaurant Coyote. Or more precisely, Coyote has been rebranded as Sansara, a Tibetan-Asian restaurant. The changes are fairly modest, to say the least, as much of the original Mexican-themed dОcor remains, including the wall murals. The new ""Tibetanness"" come in the form of some extra photographs of mountains and various souvenirs scattered about the place. Overall, the interior would best be described as colorfully eclectic, given the mishmash of various ethnic styles and the resulting psychedelic color scheme.

Issue 3889 | 23 Apr 2008

GUM's New Canteen
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Stolovaya 57 is quite incongruously located. Buried deep among GUM's boutiques and jewelers, the new eatery is exactly what its name would lead you to believe: It's basically a cafeteria, albeit a very good one.

Ask the Chef
Andrei Serdin is the brand-chef of the Goodman chain of steakhouses.

Issue 3888 | 22 Apr 2008

Cozy Comforts at Mari's
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Mari Vanna has arrived in Moscow. The Ginza Project team, the restaurateurs behind a diverse range of restaurants including Prado Cafe, Sorry Babushka and the Yaposha sushi-bar chain, have brought their Mari Vanna cafe concept down from St. Petersburg.

Chef's Secrets: Nicoise Salad With Fresh Tuna
A recipe from Yankel Schein, concept chef at Filimonova & Yankel fish house.

Issue 3887 | 21 Apr 2008

Soviet Side Door Eats
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Sluzhebny Vkhod is the latest retro-Soviet eatery to appear in Moscow, having opened just over a month ago.

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey Arkady Novikov, a leading restaurateur and one of the founders of Moscow's modern restaurant scene has been awarded the Italian Order of Merit of the Republic, or Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana.

Issue 3885 | 17 Apr 2008

Drink of the Elephants
By Maria Antonova Icon

La Grotta the Third
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Hidden away on a little winding lane, Metekhi was one of those mom-and-pop eateries that expats commonly complain there just aren't enough of around Moscow. It served hearty and wholesome Georgian dishes with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Unfortunately, such inexpensive eateries seem to be falling afoul of Moscow's ever increasing rents. Metekhi has now closed as well, replaced by the third installment in the La Grotta series of Italian restaurants.

Issue 3884 | 16 Apr 2008

Good Beer at Grossbir
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Grossbir's opening coincided with the opening of Grossbif, which is not surprising since they are both the product of same restaurateur -- Vladimir Pavlov.

Ask the Chef
Alexei Strukov is brand chef of the Kolbasoff chain.

Issue 3883 | 15 Apr 2008

Tartare of Herring and Green Apples on Scandinavian Toast
Chef's Secrets

Pasta Around the Clock
By NathanToohey / Staff Writer Pasta i Basta definitely looks set to succeed. For starters, it is a creation of the restaurateurs behind such popular spots as the Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie, Ogni and Dantes. Furthermore, its location is prime -- on Sretensky Bulvar right by the fashionable Chistiye Prudy neighborhood.

Issue 3882 | 14 Apr 2008

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey It's not uncommon for warm weather to roll into Moscow and catch the local cafe scene unprepared.

Fashionable Asian Mix
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Neglinnaya is a pretty posh street, lined with fancy stores, self-important banks and five-star hotels.

Issue 3880 | 10 Apr 2008

Satisfy Your Carb Craving
What to Do

Modern Eats at Grossbif
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Grossbif is a good example of why people living in Moscow's outer suburbs no longer need to look downtown to find a fine restaurant experience. Ulitsa Udaltsova may be far from the center, but this part of town does have its charms. Situated inside a small retail center that neighbors the large and pleasant Park Imeni 50-Letiya Oktyabrya, Grossbif is perfectly placed for a relaxed meal after a day strolling in the park. And Grossbif is a relaxed kind of place. It sports a modern and fairly minimal design, with large windows facing onto a nicely landscaped courtyard that give the restaurant an airy atmosphere.

Issue 3879 | 9 Apr 2008

Likbez
By Svetlana Osadchuk Moscow does not have a reputation as a particularly child-friendly city, but there are some restaurants and stores that provide facilities with changing tables.

Dim Sum at Dim Sim
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer The new Asian restaurant Dim Sim should certainly not be associated with the greasy deep-fried snack-bar staple found throughout Australia.

Ask the Chef
Frederic Andrieu of France is the pastry chef at Swissotel Krasnye Holmy hotel.

Issue 3878 | 8 Apr 2008

Artful Eating at Khlam
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer KhLAM is a Russian acronym that stands for ""artists, litterateurs, performers, musicians,"" and this newly opened eatery does indeed have an atmosphere that lives up to its name, albeit in a rather ostentatious way -- down-and-out beatnik poets should head round the corner to Kvartira 44.

Chef's Secrets: Hot Soup-Vinegret With Herring and Green Peas
A recipe from restaurant critic Alexei Zimin, guest chef for gastropub Prostiye Veshchi's ""New Seledka"" Norwegian herring promotion.

Issue 3877 | 7 Apr 2008

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey

A Taste of the Suburbs
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer There was a time when cafes in suburban shopping centers were little better than cafeterias, or at best a fast-food outlet facing onto a food court. Things have come quite a long way over the last few years, if the recently opened Vkus Cafe is any example.

Issue 3875 | 3 Apr 2008

Tvorog
By Svetlana Osadchuk Icon

Palochki's Local Debut
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Moscow's restaurant chains have been expanding out into the regions for quite some time now, but it is still unusual for other cities' chains to try to muscle their way into the capital's cutthroat market. St. Petersburg's Japanese restaurant chain Dve Palochki has set about to do just that with its bold, simultaneous opening of two downtown restaurants -- one on Serpukhovskaya Ulitsa and one on Myasnitskaya Ulitsa.

Issue 3874 | 2 Apr 2008

Serb Grill on the River
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer The legendary Serbian restaurant is back. Boemi, which has been serving up a traditional Serbian grill menu for over 10 years, has reopened in a new location and the results are impressive indeed.

Ask the Chef
Bennardo Gianluca of Sicily is Politica restaurant's new head chef.

Issue 3873 | 1 Apr 2008

Herring Salad With Onion Sauce, Ruccola, Borodino Croutons and Sunflower Seeds
Chef's Secrets

Like Sugar 'n' Spice
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Nice Cafe is one of those Moscow restaurants that resemble an opulent boudoir belonging to some decadent European aristocrat. Its over-the-top interior spares no gilding in its pursuit of pretentiousness. The rich red color scheme is trimmed with ample gold highlighting, and numerous works of art grace the walls. As is flavor of the moment, there are plenty of paisley swirls patterned across the walls and furniture. It's certainly nothing if not sumptuous.

Issue 3872 | 31 Mar 2008

Great Grilled Goods
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer La Parrilla is an Argentinean restaurant in a city that has very few such eateries. What's more, it's hardly a typical steakhouse.

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey Gastropub Prostiye Veshchi in conjunction with the Norwegian Seafood Export Council and restaurant critic Alexei Zimin are gearing up to kick off a week of herring.

Issue 3870 | 27 Mar 2008

Grechka
By Svetlana Osadchuk Grechka (Buckwheat groats) is a cereal known mostly in Russia. Roasted whole-grain buckwheat is mainly used to make grechnevaya kasha, a fluffy porridge with a special, nutty aroma.

A Casual European Mix
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Il Buon Cibo is a cute little continental-style cafe that seems to draw patrons in with its casual, cozy atmosphere. Although it sports an Italian name, the design could easily be called French or, for that matter, just simply Old World. There's the familiar combination of raw brick and red walls; further rustic charm is generated with onion ropes and old botanical prints on the walls. Some modern contrast is provided by the spacious open kitchen that seems to occupy as much space as the dining area itself. Large windows provide for pleasant people-watching on busy Bolshaya Nikitskaya.

Issue 3869 | 26 Mar 2008

Poetic Beers at Byron
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Cafe Byron has recently taken over where the Taiwanese restaurant Ostrov Formoza once traded. Although the new eatery is purportedly a beer restaurant, the interior is certainly not that of a typical beer hall.

Ask the Chef
Michel Lauga of France is chef de cuisine at Observatoire restaurant.

Issue 3868 | 25 Mar 2008

Elite Organic Offerings
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer The recently opened Real Food Restaurant in the Crowne Plaza hotel at the Moscow World Trade Center has turned out to be an unexpectedly innovative and interesting eatery.

Chef's Secrets: Barbecue Wings
A recipe from Alexei Strukov, brand-chef of the beer restaurant chain Kolbasoff.

Issue 3867 | 24 Mar 2008

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey Sausage restaurant chain Dymov No. 1's branch on Sofiiskaya Naberezhnaya (pictured) has raised its family-friendly profile with the opening of a new children's room. Open on weekends from noon to 5 p.m., the playroom has all kinds of entertainments to amuse children of all ages. The little ones can play with building blocks, toy cars, stuffed toys and dolls. Older kids will appreciate the Sony PlayStation and its large range of games. An experienced nanny is on hand to keep an eye on the proceedings. A special children's menu has also been added to occupy stomachs, as well as mischievous hands. 34 Sofiiskaya Naberezhnaya, 951-7571/3571, M. Novokuznetskaya. Children's restaurant Dom Oranzhevoi Korovy has introduced a spring menu.

A Small Slice of Serbia
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Yugos, one of the city's few Serbian restaurants, has just had a makeover. Dropping its previous beige color scheme, it has chosen a strikingly bright, patriotic mix of red, blue and white. The interior nonetheless remains cozy, and the Balkan pop shown on the plasma screens only adds an authentic touch.

Issue 3865 | 20 Mar 2008

Cider
By Maria Antonova Treasure Hunt

Trendiness With a Twist
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer They keep on coming -- those chocolate-and-gold upmarket fashion cafes with slick interiors and premium-priced menus. Moscow's latest installment, Presnja, recently opened not far from the Ulitsa 1905 Goda metro station and it faithfully follows all the rules, with only a couple of quirks to keep things interesting. The interior sticks religiously to the fashion formula found in swank cafes about town. Its color scheme is primarily chocolate brown, accentuated with gold and brass trim and fittings. The furnishings are minimalist in style, and the lampshades are oversized. A subtle paisley-like patterning is etched around the walls.

Issue 3864 | 19 Mar 2008

Toys and More at Bufet
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer After an absence of several years, Bufet has reopened in a new location. Its new incarnation is a pleasantly eclectic trio of lounge rooms that seems popular among comfortably well-off families.

Ask the Chef
Tim Freeman of the United States is head chef at Soho Rooms.

Issue 3863 | 18 Mar 2008

Sea Bass Salad
A recipe from chef Muzafar Mukhiddinov of Jolly Dog Pub

Sightseeing in Tashkent
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer The first thing that strikes you upon entering Cafe Tashkent is a large mural of the cafe's namesake completely covering one long wall. Even more striking, however, is that the mural of Tashkent does not paint a rosy-hued representation of the Central Asian city. It's a surprisingly honest, if rather pastel, cityscape complete with Soviet city blocks and modern buildings. In this respect, Cafe Tashkent is refreshing in that it is not some Ali-Baba themed clich?, but rather a quite modern take on an Uzbek eatery, especially given its rather non-central east Moscow location. There are still enough divans and cushions to provide for some relaxed reclining, however.

Issue 3862 | 17 Mar 2008

Go With Grabli's Flow
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer The network of gargantuan Grablis has expanded once again, this time adding an oversized outlet at Semyonovskaya Ploshchad.

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey After a week of pancake indulgence, the Great Fast is already upon us. For those who are observing Lent, but find they need to eat out, Moscow's restaurants are ready to provide Lent-friendly meals.

Issue 3860 | 13 Mar 2008

Get Groceries Delivered
By Lara McCoy Roslof Likbez

Pasha's Turkish Treats
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad may be far from the city center, but then there are few Turkish restaurants to be found in Moscow -- so heading out past the Third Ring Road may well be justified if you're craving a Lahmacun, or Turkish pizza. And there is more to Pasha Kebab than its name suggests, as this is no mere kebab joint, rather, it is an elaborately fitted-out restaurant.

Issue 3859 | 12 Mar 2008

Ask the Chef
Yankel Schein of Israel is concept chef at Filimonova & Yankel.

The Jazzy Pizza Joint
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer There aren't too many dedicated jazz clubs in Moscow, let alone inexpensive ones, so the recent opening of Cafe Ray is a welcome addition. Named after Ray Charles, the cozy club has a lot going for it.

Issue 3858 | 11 Mar 2008

Carpaccio of Melon With Mint-Pernod Jelly, Lobster Tartare, Red Shrimp and Passion Fruit
Chef's Secrets

Brighten a Gray Day
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Di Citta is one of those cheap and cheerful cafes with a light, bright interior that makes for a perfect refuge on the dreary gray days that are so common this time of year. Its whitewashed brick walls and beige leather-upholstered furniture give it a summery feel, and quirky illustrations painted on the walls only add to the frivolous atmosphere.

Issue 3856 | 6 Mar 2008

Flavors of the Moment
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Cafe Emporio is the epitome of a Moscow fashion restaurant.

Icon: Bulochka
By Maria Antonova The ""caloric bun"" or kaloriinaya bulochka became a true hit in Soviet times. An 8 kopek bulochka and a bottle of kefir was a ubiquitous lunch combo for students and others who ate on the go.

Issue 3855 | 5 Mar 2008

Art for the Little Ones
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Myod describes itself as an art cafe. What that means in practice can vary, as there are quite a few ""art cafes"" around Moscow, and they seem to have little in common.

Ask the Chef
Pavel Tyagunov is the head chef of the Pasta della Mamma restaurants.

Issue 3854 | 4 Mar 2008

Tourist Appeal to a ""T""
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Pivnoi Club T is a new beer restaurant that has opened in the former premises of the restaurant Osteria.

Chef's Secrets: Pasta With Lobster
By Kirill Karmalov A recipe from Bocconcino's head chef Kirill Karmalov.

Issue 3853 | 3 Mar 2008

A Cafe With a View
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer In many ways, Cafe Shokolad is a typical fashionable downtown cafe.

Restaurant News
By Nathan Toohey

Issue 3851 | 28 Feb 2008

French Food to Die For
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Taking its name from Francois Vatel, a 17th-century French chef who committed suicide over a botched banquet for Louis XIV, Maison Vatel is a bistro-style French restaurant located under an eponymous deli.

What to Do: Celebrate Maslenitsa
By Maria Antonova / Staff Writer One day after the presidential elections, Moscow will jump into a weeklong Maslenitsa celebration.

Issue 3850 | 27 Feb 2008

Wine, Lobio and Song
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Traktir Via may be newly opened, but it is 100 percent old school.

Ask the Sommelier
Kirill Karnishin is head sommelier at Vinoteca Dissident.

Issue 3849 | 26 Feb 2008

Kvartira 44, Version 2.0
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Fans of bohemian cafes will be happy to hear that one of Moscow's favorite arty eateries, Kvartira 44, has now become a chain with the opening of a second branch.

Chef's Secrets: Salad Olivye With Quail
A recipe from Yar's head chef Matthew Cooper.

Issue 3847 | 21 Feb 2008

Cocktails and Totems
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer A tropical island in the heart of Moscow -- that's the idea behind the newly opened Tiki Bar. And given that its creators are the same group behind such hugely popular cocktail bars as Help, Tema and Booze Bub, it is well-placed to succeed.

What to Do: Drool at the Royal Table
By Maria Antonova If you haven't been to the Tsaritsyno park since its remodeling, the upcoming long weekend offers plenty of time to stroll the pathways, feed the ducks and visit some of the exhibits.

Issue 3846 | 20 Feb 2008

Belgium in Belyayevo
By Nathan Toohey / Staff Writer Jan Primus -- which made headlines last week after a police lieutenant was accused of stealing one of its statues -- deserves attention for another reason: it's one of the best beer restaurants to open in a long time.

Ask the Chef
Giovanni Susini of Italy is head chef at Italyanets.

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