Coffee adds surprising kick to rubs, marinadesSunday, June 14, 2009 Many years ago, when I was contemplating a culinary career, I took a series of cooking classes at a small French restaurant near my home. The instructor, Chef Gregoire, did not believe in throwing anything away; frugality, he said, was an important part of French cuisine. He put every edible particle of food - vegetable peelings, scraps of meat, gravy, pancake batter and even leftover coffee - into a pot, covered the concoction with water and simmered it for hours. If the resulting potage, which he affectionately called Garbage Soup, came out bland, he would throw in an extra cup of coffee. "Coffee wakes up more than human beings," he would say in his pronounced French accent. "It wakes up food as well." I confess that over the years I have rarely used coffee in my recipes. However, lately when dining out, I have tasted hints of coffee in many of the entrees I enjoyed. BraisingWith the resurgence of comfort foods, chefs are braising more often and using coffee as part of the liquid. "It adds another layer and depth of flavor," says Mitchell Rosenthal, chef-co-owner of Town Hall in San Francisco, who adds a shot of espresso to a basic mushroom sauce in his Pork Osso Bucco. Jonnatan Leiva, former executive chef of the now-closed Jack Falstaff in San Francisco, braises squab with coffee, because he likes the way the bird's gamey flavor pairs with coffee's robust notes. John Karbowski, executive chef at Pampas in Palo Alto, braises beef in a combination of stock and coffee to which he adds a little unsweetened cocoa powder. He likes to pair coffee with flavors that complement it, like chocolate. To counteract the bitter notes of the coffee and cocoa, he cooks the beef with sweet vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips and onions. He also adds a pinch of sugar, if needed, to help balance the flavors. Meat is not the only ingredient being braised in coffee. At Mexico DF in San Francisco, executive chef Roberto Aguiar Cruz rubs Arctic char with coriander, cumin, black pepper and coffee grounds, wraps it in hoja santa leaves and braises it in a beef and coffee jus. At El Paseo in Mill Valley, one of chef Keiko Takahashi's most popular dishes is foie gras that she braises in a reduction of veal stock and coffee. How much to useThe amount of coffee to use in braising depends on how strong a flavor you want. There is no hard and fast rule. Josiah Stone, chef-owner of Sent Sovi in Saratoga, recommends substituting strong coffee for half of the stock when braising heavy cuts of meat like beef and lamb. Coffee's aromatic components become integrated in the stock after simmering for several hours. "The flavor of the coffee should not be discernible," he says. "The goal of cooking with coffee is not necessarily to taste it, but to have it blend in and add another layer of flavor." Combining coffee and stock is easy for chefs because they usually have a pot of veal or beef stock simmering on a back burner. But because I don't always have a supply on hand, I wanted to be able to make a pot roast that didn't require using stock. Janine Falvo, chef de cuisine at Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar in Sonoma, has had great success braising meat in straight coffee and suggested I try it. The result is the accompanying recipe for Coffee Braised Pot Roast with Cinnamon & Ancho Chile Pepper, which has all the essence and complexity of coffee without an overpowering coffee taste. Chefs generally prefer using strongly brewed coffee rather than instant in a braise. But because I rarely brew coffee, I wondered whether instant espresso would work as well. To find out, I made two recipes of the pot roast, using brewed espresso for one and instant for the other. I invited a few friends over for a blind tasting, and although they thought the sauce made with the brewed coffee had a slightly rounder and fuller flavor, the difference was minimal. Sauces, marinades, rubsCoffee is so versatile that it is good for far more than just braising. It adds an unexpected jolt of flavor and a deep mahogany hue to barbecue sauces, marinades and rubs. Charlie Ayers, chef-owner of Calafia Cafe & Market-A-Go-Go in Palo Alto, makes what he calls a "kick-ass molasses steak sauce" that he brushes on steak while grilling it. The sauce is made with strong black coffee, molasses, spices and a few raisins for sweetness. Steven Raichlen, author of "The Barbecue Bible" (Workman, 2008) adds espresso to the brine for chicken breasts and, to complete the coffee motif, serves them with an espresso-flavored mustard barbecue sauce. Dry rubs are a combination of spices, seasonings and herbs that add flavor and texture to meats and fish. When you add ground coffee to an ordinary rub, you take it to a whole new flavor level. Pork tenderloin, a cut of meat that can be rather bland and dry, is the ideal candidate for an aromatic coffee rub. I was so enamored with the crust the rub imparted to the meat that for my next try I coated the pork with the seasonings and refrigerated it overnight. The grilled meat was moist and succulent, and the seasonings permeated the entire roast. I basted and served it with a smoky, coffee-flavored barbecue sauce and my dinner guests thought its flavor was reminiscent of slow-smoked Kansas City ribs. Rubs are most commonly used on meats that are grilled or sauteed to create a savory crust. I had never seen a rub used on a pot roast, but that did not stop me from trying it. Although the completed roast did not have a discernible crust, the drippings in the bottom of the pan after sauteeing it, gave a greater dimension of flavor to the sauce. Coffee & dessertUnlike combining coffee with savory food, a relatively recent development, coffee's distinctive flavor has been part of desserts for centuries. When I asked pastry chefs about adding coffee to desserts, their first response was to combine it with chocolate to create a velvety mousse. The marriage of coffee and chocolate isn't surprising when you consider that they grow in many of the same geographic regions and have similar floral and herbal notes. Carol LeValley, proprietor of Rustic Bakery and Cafe in Larkspur, adds just enough coffee to her chocolate mousse to deepen the dessert's flavor, but not enough to discern any coffee taste. She believes that coffee heightens the chocolate flavor. Yet, chocolate guru Alice Medrich, author of "Pure Dessert" (Artisan, 2007) and "Bittersweet" (Artisan, 2003), among others, has stopped adding coffee to chocolate desserts. "Chocolate has become so refined and complex that it overpowers the coffee," she says. Sam Godfrey, owner of Perfect Endings bakery in Napa, agrees. His solution is to replace dark chocolate with white in mocha desserts. He explains that white chocolate plays up the coffee flavor whereas dark chocolate overpowers it. The bottom line is, if you are using a complex, high-quality chocolate, you may not want to dilute it with coffee. If, however, you are using a semisweet or bittersweet chocolate that lacks floral, smoky and herbal notes, coffee can add just the boost you need. While pastry chefs might debate the merit of coffee in chocolate, they all agree that its unique flavor is delicious in a wide variety of desserts. A natural with nutsThe Chronicle's The Baker columnist Flo Braker, author of "Baking for All Occasions" (Chronicle Books, 2008) and other books, uses coffee to flavor cakes, cookies, mousses, frostings, custards, whipped cream and meringues. Its robust flavor pairs beautifully with nuts, citrus, raspberry, molasses, caramel, honey, and sour cream, she says. In recipes that don't have much liquid, Braker adds a coffee essence made by caramelizing sugar and adding strong coffee. She uses this thick syrup to flavor custard, pastry cream, creme anglaise and buttercream. Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon and Waterbar in San Francisco, uses coffee in ice cream, creme brulee, granita, angel food cake and a sumptuous cappuccino souffle. One of her favorite recipes is a caramel coffee sauce where she substitutes coffee for half the cream. When I asked her what she puts it on, she laughingly answered, "Everything. It is so good, you can almost drink it." That's pretty much how I feel about cooking all sorts of dishes with coffee. I am reminded of Chef Gregoire's mantra, "Coffee wakes up more than human beings. It wakes up food, as well." I'm having a great time proving him right.
-- Using coffee in cakes and cookies can take some experimenting. E4 Tips for cooking with coffeeStrong brewed coffee perks up the flavor in pot roasts, stews, chili, mole, baked beans and hearty soups. For fuller flavor, use ground coffee beans instead of instant. If you do use instant, make it espresso. When adding coffee to dishes that will be cooked, make the coffee stronger than you would normally drink it. The flavors mellow as they cook. To get the most coffee flavor in cookie dough, dissolve ground coffee in a small amount of liquid, such as coffee liqueur or water, and add it to the creamed butter and sugar. To add coffee flavor to cakes, coarsely crush the beans with a rolling pin and steep them in the liquid used in the batter. Using coffee in cakes, cookiesKnowing that coffee is acidic, I was curious to find out what would happen if I added it to cake batter. I began experimenting by making a simple yellow cake that called for 1 cup of milk, and substituted 1/2 cup strong coffee for half the milk. The resulting cake had great coffee flavor, but the crumb was coarser than the soft crumb I prefer. I baked the cake again, but this time I coarsely crushed the coffee beans, steeped them in a full cup of milk and strained them out. It worked beautifully. I had a cake with rich coffee notes and a soft, tender crumb. The important word here is "coarsely." Use a rolling pin. If the beans are crushed too finely, they will be difficult to strain out. Add the crushed beans to the liquid, bring the mixture to a boil and then simmer or steep them until you get the desired coffee flavor, making it more robust than if you would drink it since the coffee flavor mellows when baked. The best way to capture coffee's complex and aromatic flavors in cookies, such as butter cookies, shortbread or chocolate chip cookies, is to dilute ground coffee beans in a small amount of liquid and mix it into the dough. Although I prefer using coffee liqueur for the liquid, I tested my Espresso Wedges with Dark Chocolate & Cacao Nibs with water and the outcome was similar. If you want a more subtle coffee flavor, simply mix finely ground coffee directly into the dough. When I experimented with instant espresso versus ground espresso in cookies, the ground beans produced a far more pronounced coffee flavor. Coffee, Almond & Chocolate TorteServes 10 You'll get a double dose of coffee in this torte and the accompanying fudge sauce. Prepare the torte at least a day before serving. It also can be frozen for several weeks.
Instructions: Combine the egg whites and espresso in the mixing bowl of a stand mixer and let stand 10 minutes. Using the whisk attachment, mix on low speed until foamy . Add cream of tartar, increase speed to high, and mix until soft peaks form . Add brown sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing until stiff peaks form . Transfer to a bowl that can go in the freezer. In the same mixing bowl (no need to wash it), whip cream with vanilla until stiff peaks form . Carefully fold cream into the beaten whites. Freeze for 1 hour, or until top is fairly firm when you press it lightly with your fingers. Some of it will feel firm and other parts soft; you just want to make sure it is very cold. Meanwhile, fill a medium pot halfway with water. Put chocolate into a bowl that can sit in the pot without touching the water. Heat over medium heat, stirring often, until chocolate is melted. Be careful not to get any water into the chocolate or it will seize. Stir in almonds. Keep over low heat, stirring occasionally, until cream mixture has been frozen, per above instructions. Remove cream mixture from freezer. Pour warm chocolate over cold cream and fold together until incorporated. Chunks of chocolate slivers will form when the hot chocolate hits the cold cream. Transfer to a 9-inch springform pan. Cover with foil and freeze until solid, overnight or up to several weeks. To serve: Prepare Espresso Fudge Sauce according to the accompanying recipe. Go around edge of torte with a knife and remove springform sides. Cut torte into slices and spoon some warm Espresso Fudge Sauce sauce across each piece. Per serving: 395 calories, 6 g protein, 31 g carbohydrate, 30 g fat (15 g saturated), 65 mg cholesterol, 49 mg sodium, 2 g fiber. Wine pairing: Stick to coffee or even bittersweet hot chocolate to contrast with the cold torte. Espresso Wedges with Dark Chocolate & Cacao NibsMakes 32 pieces Carol LeValley, proprietor of Rustic Bakery & Cafe in Larkspur, developed a unique technique for making her Espresso Chocolate Chip Cookies. She rolls the dough into a round, bakes it and then cuts it into wedges. This is so much easier than rolling and cutting cookies and then rerolling and cutting the scraps, that I use her technique for my espresso cookies. Cacao nibs are roasted ground bits of the cacao bean. They are crunchy with a subtle bittersweet chocolate flavor, but feel free to substitute any good quality dark chocolate bar.
Instructions: Measure out espresso into a small bowl. Stir in liqueur or water and vanilla; the coffee will remain granular. Put butter and granulated and brown sugars in the mixing bowl of a stand mixer and using the paddle attachment, beat on medium speed until blended, about 1 minute. Scrape in espresso mixture, and blend. Add flour and salt and mix on low speed to blend, then mix on medium until incorporated. Scrape sides, add chocolate pieces and mix until blended. Divide dough into 2 equal parts. Place half the dough on a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper and pat into a 6-inch round. Top with another sheet of wrap and roll into an 8-inch circle. Repeat with second half of dough. Keeping dough circles covered with plastic wrap, transfer to a plate or baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°. Lightly grease a flat baking sheet. (Do not use cushioned or black sheets.) Remove plastic wrap from one round of dough and flip onto a baking sheet. Remove top sheet of wrap. Bake in center of oven 15-19 minutes, or until edges are lightly browned and top feels firm, but cookie is still a little soft in the center. Remove from oven and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons sugar. Cool on baking sheet 8-10 minutes. Slide onto work surface and cut into 16 wedges. Repeat with second round of dough. Store in an airtight container or freeze. Per piece: 114 calories, 1 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (4 g saturated), 16 mg cholesterol, 19 mg sodium, 0 g fiber. Wine pairing: This is a great ending to a meal, especially if accompanied by a cup of coffee - with or without Baileys Irish Cream or Amaretto. A tawny Port would also work. Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Coffee-Molasses Barbecue SauceServes 6 If you can't find a 2-pound tenderloin, two 1-pound tenderloins will work fine. Just be sure to adjust the grilling time. The coffee rub also serves as a marinade, so plan to season 1-pound roasts for 4 to 6 hours and a 2-pound roast for 8 to 24 hours before grilling. The barbecue sauce can be made ahead; store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Instructions: Trim excess fat and silver skin from pork. In a small bowl, combine rub ingredients; rub all over meat. (You may not use it all.) Wrap pork in foil and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before grilling. Combine all ingredients for the Coffee Molasses Barbecue Sauce. If the sauce has been made ahead and refrigerated, bring it to room temperature before using. Remove 1/4 cup sauce to a separate bowl. Preheat a gas grill on high or prepare coals until hot, then prepare bank all the coals on one side. Oil the grate and the pork. Put pork over the coals, and grill, turning only once on each side, about 7 minutes on the first side, 6 minutes on the second side, and 3 minutes on each of the narrow sides. Use an instant-read thermometer to test the internal temperature in the thickest part of the tenderloin. When it reaches 125-130°, baste it generously with the 1/4 cup sauce. Turn the heat off (if using a gas grill) or move the pork to the coolest part of charcoal grill. Cook, covered, 5-8 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 145-150°. Remove to a cutting board. Slice thinly and serve with reserved sauce. The calories and other nutrients absorbed from rubs and sauces vary and are difficult to estimate. Variables include the type of food, marinating time and amount of surface area. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis.
Wine pairing: The slightly sweet, slightly hot sauce contributes most of the flavor. Zinfandel is a safe bet as long as it tends toward the fruity side, like the 2006 Rodney Strong Vineyards Knotty Vines Sonoma County Zinfandel ($20). Coffee-Braised Pot Roast with Cinnamon & Ancho Chile PepperServes 6 This recipe works equally well with lamb shoulder or shanks, short ribs and beef stew. If time permits, cook the roast ahead and refrigerate it and the cooked sauce separately. It is easier to carve the meat and remove the fat from the sauce when they are cold. Spoon the sauce over the meat and either refrigerate for up to 2 days or heat and serve. If desired, vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, rutabaga and potatoes can be added during the last 45 minutes of cooking.
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 325°. Rinse the roast and dry thoroughly. Combine all rub ingredients in a small bowl and rub all over the meat. In a Dutch oven or wide heavy saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium high heat until hot. Add the roast and cook on all sides until very dark (coffee will cause it to become almost black), 8-10 minutes total. Remove the roast to a plate. Add the chopped onion to the pan, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, scraping up as much of the seasoning stuck to the bottom of the pan as possible, until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and saute for 1 minute. Slowly add a small amount of coffee to the pan (it will sizzle). Add the remaining coffee and cook, stirring up the remaining bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in cinnamon stick, chile pepper and brown sugar; bring to a simmer. Return the beef to the pan and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and transfer to the oven. Bake for 1 1/2, then turn the beef over, re-cover and continue cooking until meat is fork-tender, but not falling apart, about 3 1/2 hours total. If making ahead, refrigerate meat and juices separately. To serve: Transfer the beef to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Remove the cinnamon stick from the braising liquid and skim the fat (or pour into a gravy separator measuring cup and discard the fat). Bring the braising liquid to a boil over medium-high heat. Mash the butter with the flour to form a paste and whisk into the gravy. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until thickened slightly. Remove strings from roast, carve and serve with the gravy. Per serving: 467 calories, 70 g protein, 8 g carbohydrate, 15 g fat (7 g saturated), 216 mg cholesterol, 141 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. Wine pairing: Well-done beef and a fairly mild sauce with coffee aromas and flavors needs a soft red wine like Merlot, Dolcetto or Malbec. Try the 2007 Elsa Bianchi San Rafael Malbec ($10) from Valetin Bianchi in Mendoza, Argentina. Cabernet Sauvignon with moderate tannins would be fine, too. Espresso Fudge SauceMakes 1 1/4 cups This can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator.
Instructions: Combine cream, corn syrup, brown sugar, espresso, cocoa and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Add chocolate and stir until melted. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often, until mixture thickens slightly. Remove from heat and stir in vodka, if using. If made ahead, re-heat gently on the stovetop or in the microwave before serving. Per 1-tablespoon serving: 76 calories, 1 g protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (3 g saturated), 12 mg cholesterol, 23 mg sodium, 0 g fiber. Marlene Sorosky Gray is a Bay Area freelance writer and author of eight cookbooks, including "Fast & Fresh Festive Meals for the Holidays" (William Morrow and Co.). E-mail her at food@sfchronicle.com. This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle |
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