Porto is known for its port wine and football team
But in the heart of Vila Nova de Gaia, the town on the opposite side of the river to Porto where all the main producers store the
fortified wine, the cranes towering over the skyline point to a bold attempt to keep a port business up-to-date. Nestled among the port lodges on the banks of the river Douro is a new luxury hotel, which the Fladgate Partnership, best known for its Taylor's and Fonseca ports, is set to open in the summer.
The EUR32.5m, 82-bed Yeatman hotel is all the more extraordinary because little is being built or invested in Portugal at the moment as
the country strains under a huge debt burden. "Yes, we clearly want to increase the appeal of port to consumers," says Adrian Bridge, head of Fladgate. "But this is also a project of national importance."
His argument goes that Porto, with its position right on the Atlantic and the faded grandeur of its buildings, is a prime tourist location but one that lacks a destination hotel. The focus will not just be on port but on all local wines. There will even be a wine spa, where
guests can get a grape face mask or a pip rub.This comes on top of the introduction of an organic port and then three years ago of a pink port - unthinkable to the purists, perhaps, but popular chilled with younger consumers. Mr Bridge says one of Croft Pink's biggest customers is a Houston restaurant that serves it as slushy iced drink. "What it's doing is introducing new people to port. Port can be a little bit
daunting for new people," he admits.
It is a tricky balance. Few 300-year-old companies are still around in their original form. Iron and trading companies have become truckmakers (MAN) and general retailers (Haniel). Even Fladgate started off as a wool company before turning to port at the end of the 17th century.
But that
longevity with a single product means that too much innovation could upset the traditionalists. The three rooms under Fladgate's headquarters contain thousands of bottles of vintage port - unlike pink port, the stuff its reputation will be made on. Nick Heath, Fladgate's marketing director, says a few years ago managers said to themselves: "We have got a very traditional category with a lot of heritage. Is it really something that younger drinkers can relate to?"
Pink and innovative
Attempts to produce a pink port ran into difficulties. Portuguese legislation (since changed) made it illegal to produce a proper rosé port, so Fladgate made the wine the traditional way with a few differences to get the colour right and labelled it "Pink". "Innovation is difficult in an industry this old," says Mr Bridge.
Instead, much of the focus now is on educating new customers on how to drink port. So while port and cheese make for a good combination in Canada, they don't in Germany where Käse is a breakfast food.
The differences between a 20-year-old tawny and a ruby can
tax even port lovers, but for Mr Bridge, explaining them to consumers in new markets such as Russia and Asia is vital: "The whole word of wine has expanded and is massive. We are on a bigger stage and have to work harder."
The hotel is playing its part in that quest but unsurprisingly for a company that is more than 300 years old, Mr Bridge doesn't see its success as a short-term issue: "This is an investment for the long term," he says.