Grytviken
Whaling
Station.
On
the northern flank of South Georgia lies Grytviken, sheltered
in Cumberland Bay East. It consists of a cluster of huts
and buildings at the head of King Edward Cove. What was
once a flourishing whaling station is now a muddled array
of deserted factories, workshops, hostels and power units
with three old steam whalers lying forlornly against the
rickety wharfs.
Museum.
South Georgia Museum was established in 1992 in Grytviken.
Now beautifully restored, it was once the Manager's Villa.
Information on the island's wildlife and heritage, including
the whaling industry and Shackleton's journey across South
Georgia, is carefully housed and displayed. There are many
original artifacts, photographs and paintings. A small shop
provides a good selection of books and interesting souveniers.
Tim and Pauline Carr manage the museum. Their responsibilities
include the care and preservation of the Whalers Church
and cemetery at Grytviken, Shackelton's grave and the Shackelton
Memorial Cross at Hope Point.
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Church.
The
little Norwegian Church, established by C A Larsen,
was dismantled from its original site at Strommen
in Norway and re-erected in Grytviken in time for
Christmas day 1913. Its two bells which still hang
in its steeple were cast in Tonsberg, Norway. After
a short while, despite the arrival of a new pastor
and the fine, newly-built church, the new young pastor
reluctantly admitted: "Christian life unfortunately
does not wax strong among whalers".
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During
the 1990's, the museum curator, Tim Carr completed a project
to repair and restore the Church. Every year in the words
of Nan Brown the author: 'the little church, normally so
empty and quiet, becomes a glorious blaze of light on Christmas
Eve and the sound of the organ echoes around the darkening
fjord'.
Cemetery.
The cemetery is famous for Sir Earnest Shackleton's grave,
but also of interest are the graves of the whalers and sealers,
one of which dates as far back as 1838. At the height of
the whaling era in the 1960's a magistrate lost his life
when he was swept into the bay by an avalanche, his grave
can be found here. Also lying here is the grave of Felix
Artuso, an Argentine submariner who lost his life, a poignant
reminder of the 1982 war between Britain and Argentina.
King
Edward Point
The
small isthmus at the head of the cove is called King Edward
Point. It houses the Government's administrative center
and is home of the British Antarctic Survey Applied Fisheries
Research Station.
Discovery
House.
Discovery
House was the shore station for early research on the island.
It was built in 1925 at the time the Royal Research Ship'
Discovery' was employed in the Southern Oceans. Around this
time the enormous increase in whaling activities at South
Georgia and in the South Seas had led Parliament in London
to be concerned about the preservation of the whaling industry.
Research into the migration and pattern of whale stocks,
the importance of Antarctic krill in the diet of whales
and in the food chains of the entire region around South
Georgia was monitored and appreciated. Detailed studies
were also made of the seals and bird-life on the Island.
The refurbished building of Discovery House stands adjacent
to the BAS Research Station and can be seen by visitors
to King Edward Point, South Georgia.
Shackleton's
Memorial Cross and Hope Point.
Beyond
the Research Station, lies the Shackleton Memorial Cross
at Hope Point. Shackleton had returned to South Georgia
in order to undertake his fourth expedition, this time to
circumnavigate the Antarctic Continent. However while he
was on board his ship, The Quest, moored in King Edward
Cove, he died from a heart attack early in the morning on
5th January 1922. At his widow's request, his comrades buried
him in Grytviken. In 1928 a granite gravestone was sent
from Britain and was erected and unveiled by Governor Hodson.
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